Happy Rosé Day

There seems to be a “holiday” for everything now and some are quite silly. However, today there are TWO that are pretty great. 

First it is the National Rosé Day, that lovely light pink elixir that flows like water all over France and now throughout the corners of the world. It dates back to Ancient Greece when they would dilute the red wine and today winemakers can’t keep up with production. The wine of summer which is as official as this holiday just makes those long summer days even better and if you can have it on the banks of the Seine then you are really doing it right. 

It is also important to match your wine to your dress and shoes, another unofficial rule.  

PS. These will be making the move. 

Happy Rosé Day and stay tuned for the other special holiday today and maybe sober it up mid day for that one. 

santé! 

Gustave Courbet, the Bad Boy of the 19th Century Art World

Gustave Courbet, the realist artist behind the Origin of the World and two stunning large scale paintings in the Orsay was born on this day in 1819.

Born to wealthy landowners in Ornans, he found his artistic talent at an early age. His first painting was a self portrait, today in the Carnavalet. Like many artists he would spend his days in the Louvre copying the masters. Preferring the Dutch, Spanish and Venetian paintings he was going to stand out from the other painters from early on.

Rejected over and over from the Salon for over ten years, he would keep marching to his own tune.

After yet another rejection, with the funding of Alfred Bruyas he built his own pavilion for the 1855 Universal Exhibition displaying more than 40 paintings.

In 1870 he was appointed President of the General Surveillance of French Museums. With a team of people they protected the museums and art as the Prussians neared Paris. In his new role he expressed his displeasure of the Napoleon statue on the top of the Vendome Column. He felt it “held no artistic value and represented the past imperial dynasty and its ideas of war”. As a member of the Commune he requested it be removed, the motion wasn’t adopted, but Courbet would take the matter into his own hands.

Scheduled for May 5, Napoleon's birthday but delayed until May 16, a group of men with ropes tied it to the bronze emperor and gave it a few good pulls. Falling to the ground covered with sand it broke in two and sent clay and dust darkening the sky. Courbet stood back and watched. He wanted it taken down, but not destroyed but it wouldn’t matter. Arrested and put on trial he would be convicted and sentenced to 6 months in prison. Once released only few in the art world accepted him and the salon rejected him again. With fellow artists they created their own, the Salon des Refuses in 1873. That same year President Mac Mahon passed a law that Courbet should pay for the new Column. To pay the 320,000 francs his paintings were taken and sold and he slipped into financial ruin.

Victor Baltard, the designer of Paris

In the “Men who Designed Paris” series, we take a look at Victor Baltard. Gustave Eiffel is known for his iron work but there were a few others that came before him.

Born on June 9, 1805, his most notable creation began in the mid 1840’s. While the structures around Les Halles were going up in classic stone structures, it all came to a halt when Napoleon had returned from London after viewing the new lighter metal structures. Napoleon asked Baltard to design something that he had already been thinking about for more than ten years. Overnight Baltard, sketched out a structure that would be built with cast iron, iron, glass and brick, in the much envied home on the corner of Place de Furstemberg and Rue de l’Abbaye.

It would take until 1854 for the building to begin but would finish somewhat quickly with the first few pavilions completed in 1857. In his design instead of using tie-bolts he designed corner brackets that were light and elegant. Sadly Les Halles would later be destroyed but one pavilion can be seen outside of Paris in Nogent-sur-Marne. Closer into Paris you can get an idea of what they looked like at the former cattle market at Villette. Today it is Les Halles de la Villette where large exhibitions are held. The same pretty corner brackets can be found. Two other markets in Paris were created by Victor that still stand today, the Marché Secrétan and the Marché La Chapelle.

When Baltard was a child he attended the Calvinist Temple du Marais with another young man that would leave a mark on Paris, Georges-Eugene Haussmann. When Haussmann began to redesign Paris he asked his old friend to help him out. Promoted to Architect of the Hotel de Ville & churches and then head of the architecture department of the city. As the architect of the churches he oversaw the repair, restoration and maintenance of some of the most beloved churches in Paris.

Saint Germain l’Auxerrois, Saint Eustache, Saint Etienne de Mont, Saint Germain des Prés, Saint Séverin and Saint Paul Saint Louis all benefited from the work of the artist architect. One church would really benefit from his talent, Saint Augustin.

Marie Antoinette's takes Paris

Marie Antoinette arrived at the court of Versailles in May 1770. The young Austrian archduchess left her family and Vienna behind for the life of the Dauphine and future queen of France. For three years she only left Versailles to go to Château de Saint-Cloud, but longed to spend a day in the city of love. Very close with Louis XV who adored her was an easy target and after constant urging she finally wore him down. The royal family couldn’t just pop into Paris, it had to be organized and they needed to arrive with great fanfare on June 8, 1773.

The people of Paris hadn’t seen the Austrian beauty yet outside of portraits in pamphlets. Paris was abuzz with the news and couldn’t wait for her arrival. However, Marie Antoinette could hardly stand it and couldn’t wait to get there. A few days before she was able to convince her husband, Louis XVI and his brother that they sneak out of Versailles and go to a masked ball at the Paris Opera.

The party loving Marie loved it, Louis XVI would rather be at home playing with locks but he was still a good sport. It was at this party that she would meet a handsome Swedish count Axel von Fersen, the man who would become theThe people of Paris hadn’t seen the Austrian beauty yet outside of portraits in pamphlets. Paris was abuzz with the news and couldn’t wait for her arrival. However, Marie Antoinette could hardly stand it and couldn’t wait to get there. A few days before she was able to convince her husband, Louis XVI and his brother that they sneak out of Versailles and go to a masked ball at the Paris Opera.

The party loving Marie loved it, Louis XVI would rather be at home playing with locks but he was still a good sport. It was at this party that she would meet a handsome Swedish count Axel von Fersen, the man who would become the love of her life and would try to save her from her final demise. love of her life and would try to save her from her final demise.

She would dance the night away until the wee hours arriving back to Versailles just in time for them to sneak into mass. The king was never the wiser. On June 8, as the royal carriages arrived onto the Parisian streets the cheering crowd for the Joyeuse Entrée. It was quite the reception for the dauphine who loved every second of it. Cries of Vive le Dauphine filled the streets. Louis Hercule de Cossé, duc de Brissac and military governor of Paris greeted them upon their arrival. Arriving at the Palais des Tuileries to a crowd of thousands of people, the young couple stood on the balcony. Meeting Marie-Antoinette and Louis XVI he reportedly said “Madame, they are 200,000 of your lovers”. Sixteen years later, they would call her again to a balcony, this time wanting her death.

*the opera they attended has burnt down, but the Palais Garnier is still beautiful to imagine.

78 Years Ago Today

78 years ago today allied forces landed on the beaches of Normandy and would begin the drive of German forces out of France and given the name Operation Overlord.

Débarquement de Normandie as it is referred to in France, D-Day to many others around the world. General and future President Eisenhower consulted the weather and tides charts and picked the day that would be the best for landing on the coast. The greatest generation that morning took the beach by water and air, many of them never to step off the sand to return home. More than 125,000 American, British and Canadian soldiers were involved in the operation that began at midnight when they parachuted in and to the beach at dawn. The causalities were high, for all the allies, the highest numbers at Omaha beach.

My grandfather fought in WWII, arriving after D-Day in August 1944 and serving as a co-pilot in the Air Force flying B24’s. Stationed in Attlebridge England they would fly over the North of France and into Germany. It was something he never really talked about and a part of his life I have put together through his photos, notebooks of mission and his letters.

In 1983, my grandparents visited Normandy and the American cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer. Located on a former battlefield the cemetery is covered with 9,388 white crosses that face west to the United States.

The memorial colonnade built in 1956, made of limestone from Burgundy holds the map of the operation of that infamous day. A large bronze sculpture by Donald de Lue represents The Spirit of American Youth Rising. What is meant to be an uplifting, hopeful image of a young soldier reaching to the sky is filled with sadness when you think of the young men that gave their life for the greater good on that day.

These photos are my grandfathers, taken on what was a very emotional day for him. I asked my grandmother years ago what she remembered of that day and she said my grandpa walked alone taking photos and shedding a tear for the many that had been lost. However, he felt it was important to be there and to see the final resting place of so many.

Tiber et Napoléon dans le Louvre

In 1972 the large allegory of the Tiber River brought to France by Napoleon once sat in the Cour du Sphinx where it was when my grandfather snapped this photo. It has since been moved to the end of the apartments of the queen mother Anne of Austria with the Seine flowing at his back.

Tiber dates back to the 1st century and was discovered in Rome in 1512 with its mirrored stature of the Nile. Moved to the papal collection in Rome following the discovery until Napoleon made his own discovery and wanted the two statues taken back to France.

In 1797 the Treaty of Tolentino, an agreement between the Papal State and the French Republic, the statues were transferred to the Musée Napoleon, what is now known as the Musée du Louvre. Following the defeat and removal of Napoleon in 1815, the Nile was returned to the Vatican, but Tiber was given as a gift from Pope Pius VII to the now King Louis XVIII and has remained in the Louvre until today.

The statue depicts the allegory of the Tiber holding an oar for navigation and in his right hand a cornucopia which symbolizes the nourishing of the river. Just below him on the left are the twins Romulus and Remus shown being breastfed by a she wolf, the symbol of the city of Rome. One of the most beautiful things of Paris is that all though years can pass, there are things that remain the same.

The building, bridges and art can span years and centuries but the people like the river keeps flowing and passing with time. I love the little gal in the lower left with her stripe shirt looking up at a statue. Maybe at this moment she fell in love with art. Also apparently the Louvre had a little more liberal rule of touching the statues with a guard in his snazzy uniform looking on.

Currently this entire area is closed off and under renovation, although they haven’t started as I peek through the door everyday to see if they are working.

Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel

Have you ever wondered why the area in front of the Musée du Louvre and the smaller Arc is called Carrousel? Well, here I am to fill you in on that fun little Paris fact.

360 years ago on June 5, 1662 Louis XIV held a giant party after he heard the news that his wife, Maria Theresa was with child. The future dauphin, Louis would be born in November, but we are getting ahead of ourselves.

Louis XIV was not shy about throwing grand fetes, many of which would be at Versailles, but this party would take place in the Tuileries. Multiple groups of riders, dressed head to toe in velvet, feathers and silk mounted their horses and chased each other performing drills and looping there lances in hoops and tossing balls from one to another.

This was at the time called a Carrousel, and from that day forward it was called Place de Carrousel. IN 1682, the Sun King would pack up the palace and take his court to Versailles leaving the Palais du Louvre behind, never to return.

The merry-go-round as we know it today is based on the carrousel of the 17th century. Originally it was for adults and over time it changed into a ride for children. Today you can find the original Paris carrousel in the Jardin du Luxembourg, designed by Charles Garnier of the Opera house fame. Sadly it doesn’t have the same golden grandeur of the opera but historic none the less.

Napoleon would keep the name in 1806 when he ordered the Arc de Triomphe Carrousel built to commemorate his recent victories. There was a short period when it was also the site of a guillotine during the Terror, but its best to think of fancy horses prancing around. Sadly, the Dauphin would die before his father and never take the throne. However, we still have the memory of that day left sitting on the Grand Axis of Paris.

A year with cancer

This week's newsletter came out a few days late. I wanted to mark a significant occasion that hit my life a year ago today.

Sometimes I have moments when I just start to cry out of nowhere. Not because I have cancer but because I think of how relieved I am in the place I am, a year later. 

It was February 24, 2021 that I woke up and my eyes were so blurry I could barely see anything. In a panic I called the doctor who sent me to the eye clinic who couldn’t really help. For two weeks to the day,  I woke up every day to it being either a bit better or a bit worse, there wasn’t a rhyme or reason to it until March 10. 

That day I went to put out the green recycling bin and in pulling and turning I hurt my back. In the next few hours an immense and painful hematoma appeared. It went from my shoulder blade to my waist and was 3 inches across and was 2 inches deep and hard as a rock. Calling the doctor they said I just pulled it and prescribed a muscle relaxer. 

For eight days it got worse and worse. I couldn’t walk more than 4 steps without having to stop to catch my breath. I couldn't sleep, every position was horrible. I could barely eat, just chewing and swallowing cut off my breath.  Everyday I called the doctor's office multiple times and each time was told it wasn’t too serious. It was during Covid and having a hard time breathing was a big deal, but didn’t seem urgent to them. 

Finally I said “someone needs to physically look at me”. I would lay in bed and for 2 hours try to psyche myself up to walk to the kitchen. It was a task that would take 20 minutes with constant stops along the wall or to sit down. 

Early in the morning on March 18, my mom and sister took me to urgent care. Within minutes the doctor told me I needed to go to the emergency room. After many tests and a few hours an ER doctor rolled in a huge laptop and showed me xrays of my spleen and liver that were 4 times larger than they should be. It was at that moment around Noon on March 28, 2021  that he turned to me and said “we believe you have a form of blood cancer”. 

I don’t think you can ever prepare yourself for that moment. How you will react or how you even can absorb it. I had felt so horrible for eight days that all I could think at that moment was that I just wanted to feel better. 

When I arrived at the hospital and they wheeled me in on a stretcher I can remember clearly the moment when the paramedic gave them my name and said I was going to Oncology. Oncology, for cancer patients, how is this happening? 

The next 24 hours included an ambulance ride, a bone marrow biopsy, a blood transfusion, MRI and ultrasound to check for blood clots.  A normal person has a white blood count around 12,000. Mine was 577,000, to what my doctor said was the highest he had ever seen by more than 200,000. My blood was as thick as peanut butter, which is why I couldn’t see, which at this point was so bad everything was just a big blurry blob. 

Through a series of chemotherapy tablets over a week it dramatically came down and each morning I waited for the results of the 3am blood test anxious to get down to 100,000, the marker of when I was allowed to leave the hospital. It took 12 days and I had never been so happy to get out of a place. Many of the nurses were so kind and I still think of two ladies that were there from that first night I arrived, scared to death.

When the doctor came in after being there for 5 long days waiting for the results and told me it was confirmed, I had a form of Leukemia called CML, Chronic Myeloid Leukemia. It was the best news you could hope for in terms of Leukemia and it was then after 2 weeks of pain and being scared to death that I finally cried.  Laying in the hospital alone you think of every worse case scenario. What if I need a bone marrow transplant, what if I have to have a difficult treatment like radiation or chemotherapy, what if I die before I can get back to Paris. 

The doctor said to me “if there was a cancer to have, this is it”. Twenty years ago an amazing doctor, Dr Druker, just a few miles from me created the life saving drug that goes after the two chromosomes that cause CML. Before that date, I would have most likely been dead today instead of celebrating one year of living with it. 

It is now one year later. And everyday since February 24, 2022 I think of where I was a year ago. When I walk into the kitchen and back to my office in just a few seconds I remember when just the thought of taking a few steps seemed impossible. It seems like yesterday and at the same time forever ago. 

While the thought that you have cancer is never far from your mind, there are some strange side effects that come with it. You have a new feeling for life when you are told you were just a few days from death and faced your own mortality. Life is short and don't wait to follow your heart or your dreams. 

The goal that got me through the two weeks in the hospital

There is never a time I blow my nose that I am not scared for a half a second that I will find blood. Never a moment that I feel “off” that I don’t think it will lead to something worse. There is never a moment that I run into something and know it will lead to a bruise, that I am not worried it will turn into a giant hematoma. 

Many people that have cancer or are dealing with anything honestly might appear just fine on the outside but know that on the inside you never forget what you have had to go through or what you are fighting. It is far easier to put on a happy face and present that you are fine, but it is never more  than a second away from your thoughts and becomes a very lonely thing to live with.  For all the survivors out there and those living with cancer or really any difficult disease, don’t forget to check in with them every once in a while. 

Today, one year later my blood numbers are all in the normal range and my wonderful doctor just yesterday said we are 6 months ahead of where he wanted me to be at the one year mark. It will be years before we can think of reducing or stopping the medication but every day we get a little closer. 

Thank you to everyone this last year for all the support and not just because of a disease like cancer. Thank you for your likes, your comments and your mutual love of history and Paris. 

Solo Travel to Paris for Women

Every week I get a few ladies that message me asking for advice about traveling alone to Paris. Of course, going to another country and continent for that matter could be scary, but fear not travelers. Over the last two years we have survived the need to travel is even greater. I am here to tell you if you want to go, GO!

Paris is one of the easiest cities to visit alone and I have done it for years now. It is easy to navigate, safe and there are plenty of things to do. When I am in Paris I spend much of my time researching French history, giving tours, strolling through museums, and spending hours sitting on a terrace enjoying a glass or four of French wine. However, the beauty of Paris is that you can make it all on your own and do anything you want.

My first trip to Paris, was many years ago when a friend used her air miles to get me a ticket, and months later, I arrived to visit the city I loved so much before I ever set foot in it. It was to be a short six-day trip and then onto Florence where my friend lived. After two days, she said to me one hot and muggy day, “I think you should go back to Paris”. The thought of turning around by myself and heading back to Paris at first sounded pretty scary, but after a lovely lunch and lots of wine, it sounded better and better. A ticket was purchased, the hotel secured, and I was back on a plane heading straight to Paris the next day.

Arriving at Orly, luggage in hand, I went off to grab a taxi. Well, so I thought. Following the taxi signs, I was approached by a man asking if I needed a taxi, well how easy can this be, Oui Oui! As we walked towards the cars, we stopped at a motorcycle. With my large luggage in tow, wondering how this was going to happen and picturing myself dying on the way into the city of love, I told myself that I could do this. Strapping my suitcase and myself in and gripping for my life it was onto Paris. If you have been in a car on a Paris highway you will recall seeing the motorcycles zipping in-between cars, well this guy wasn’t any different.

Halfway through the trip, my sweaty hands loosened their grip and before I knew it, we were flying by the Jardin du Luxembourg and Place Saint Michel. I wanted to let go and open my arms and embrace being back in Paris, but let’s not get too crazy. It took under 30 minutes during rush hour to get to my hotel, cost about twice as much as it should have but for the 75 euros I bought a sense of freedom I didn’t even know I had, and that is priceless. I was standing on the Pont des Arts as sunset fell and knew I was exactly where I should be.

When you travel on your own, the whole day and city is open to you. If you want to spend four hours in the Cour Puget of the Musée du Louvre, you can. Perhaps walking aimlessly through the streets on an early Sunday morning stopping along the way at a café for that perfect croissant is more on your agenda, you can do that as well. Your time is yours to do with as you would like, so soak it all in.

There are a few things to keep in mind when you plan that seule voyage. Location and safety are the biggest but don’t let any of that scare you. For myself, I stay fairly central on the left or right bank which is a lovely walk to the museums where I spend a lot of my time. Saint Germain is a bustling area at all hours of the day and late into the evening and walking late into the night is never a problem. As a solo woman traveling, I recommend staying in Saint Germain, the Marais, Opera, and Latin Quarter areas especially if you will be walking at night. I have never had a moment that I did not feel safe walking in Paris, even if it was the wee hours of the morning. Be aware of your surroundings and your belongings at all times and walk with confidence and you won’t have any problems.  

One of the greatest pleasures in Paris is the delicious food, and traveling alone should not stop you from enjoying every single morsel. One of the advantages is that you are able to meet some wonderful people and a restaurant is a perfect place to make some wonderful connections. It is not uncommon to see many people eating alone day and night reading a book or channeling their inner Hemingway and writing away. Lunch is a great way to enjoy some of the best restaurants in Paris and save a little money as well. Inside the café may be a bit intimidating and if that’s the case, grab one of the iconic Paris café chairs on the terrace and as a bonus, it comes complete with a live show as people pass by you. The Parisian terrace is the solo traveler’s best friend and the close seats can lead to wonderful conversations.

There is nothing stopping you as the solo female traveler in Paris, however, if you have a day when you want to meet other people there are some great ways to do it. A walking tour is a fantastic option to connect with fellow travelers. There are many offered all over Paris and can be found online, and simply pick a theme that interests you and join in the fun. You will spend a few hours with people that share the same curiosities as you and many including my own ends with a drink at a café where you can really connect with others over a glass of Champagne. Speaking of wine, another great place is at many of the local wine bars. A more relaxed and fun environment than the terrace cafes, the standup wine bars turn into a party later in the night, and its impossible not to have a great time. The Odeon treasure by Yves Camdeborde, L’Avant Comptoir de la Terre where any given night can turn into an Elton John sing a long while you dine on Brochette Foie Gras Piquillos and the Champagne never stops flowing. You are all friends by the end of that night.

If you want to go to enjoy all the beauty that is Paris, I hope you take all this as your permission to go do just that. Paris will feed your soul and mine finally came alive that first night I arrived by myself. Nothing should keep you from sitting in one of those green Luxembourg chairs, a great book in your hand as the hours tick away under the shade of the trees around the Fontaine Médicis. After all, we only live once and these moments should not be missed. Now when I think back to that motorcycle taxi ride from Orly and how scared I was at that moment and where it lead me to today as my arms are wrapped around a Frenchman and on the back of a motorcycle with a bottle of Champagne in my bag as we race to Champs de Mars. Well, I would not change a single thing.

If you are looking to travel solo to Paris and have any questions, feel free to reach out. Happy to inspire and push you to take the leap, you won’t regret it.

I specialize in planning trips to Paris for travelers that want to visit the city of their dreams. If it's there first visit or their tenth there are always new things to uncover. I can help set you up in preferred hotels or spot the best apartments on AirBnB and arm you with all the best tips and tricks to maximize every moment you have in Paris.

Things are changing everyday when it comes to travel and what is needed can be overwhelming as well as always finding incorrect information. I keep fully updated everyday and can take all the worry away while you just worry about how to pack all the shoes.

Contact me today and we will set up a call to plan your perfect visit to Paris. I can't wait to help you!

And if you will be there this fall, join me for a live tour and let me bring all these places to life for you. Including Hemingway the Paris years with moi, food and wine tour of Saint Germain, architecture of the Louvre and so many more let me know. Spaces are already filling up and I can’t wait to see you in Paris. Many different tours available and can also create one just for you.

A day in the Orsay

Getting into the Musée d’Orsay before it opens to the public is a dream, but spending an entire day when the crowds are low is even better. 

I have screamed from the rooftops the greatest benefit of being a member of the Musée d’Orsay. Each Carte Blanche member is able to visit each morning at 9:00 am, 30 minutes before the doors open to the public. For the price of 2 ½ visits you can become a member, so if you love the Impressionists and want to explore it even for a short period of time alone purchase the membership and enjoy a few quiet moments alone with the masters.  

Normally I arrive early and stand in the special little line to get inside at 9:00 and then I enjoy those perfect uninterrupted moments letting the art speak to me before the rooms are filled with people. Once the museum is buzzing with people I venture out and onto my next stop only to return again a few mornings later to do the same thing. 

I always have my trusty Moleskine notebook that I fill with notes, observations, inspirations and adding to my long list of things to research and share. The Orsay is constantly moving things so what was once on the wall Tuesday can suddenly be gone come Wednesday morning. It is the downside of really knowing a museum, especially if it is something that you love.

Recently I decided to spend an entire winter day in the Orsay and take advantage of the lack of visitors and to even enjoy the lovely restaurant that dates back to the original train station. 

On this day I decided to explore the rooms on the south side of the lowest level. Since the fall they had moved all of the paintings from the collection of Dr. Gachet, my favorite Manet paintings and the paintings that give us a  peek into the life of Degas. I recently shared the room in a video as well as the story of Dr Gachet, who is better known as the doctor to Vincent van Gogh but was also friends with many of the painters of the time. His large collection was given to the Orsay by his children that included van Gogh, Cézanne, Monet and Pissarro. 

Being able to stand in front of many of these paintings in total silence and without the distraction of shutters clicking or notifications on a dozen cell phones is a spiritual experience. Just stop and stand there and look, really LOOK. Think of the Manet standing at his easel in 1872 and looking at the dark haired beauty Berthe Morisot. Dressed all in black there is a small bunch of violets held within the button of her jacket. Manet was obsessed with the Spanish look and Berthe’s dark features he had to capture as soon as he met her in the salles of the Louvre where she and her sister Edme were training as copyists. It was the beginning of a long friendship that inspired each other and she would later marry his brother. 

I think of all these things as I stand there and look into her deep dark eyes. It is one of my favorite paintings and I always pay her a visit. 

When I say that I spend an entire day for most that could be enough to visit the entire museum. For me its a dozen or so rooms. As I take in every single detail and make notes and even stop to search for more info on the internet it can be an hour or two just in one small room with a dozen paintings. IT IS PURE AND TOTAL BLISS.  On this day as I moved down a long hall I can always see the guards keeping an eye on me. Many times the guards eventually walk up to me and ask what I am writing or just want to let me know that they rarely see someone really take time to look at the art. It usually leads to a long conversation, en francais, about the art or what I do and these chats always leave me with the biggest smile. 

The ability to share and talk with someone that also loves the art or even just appreciates it are the moments that always make me sad as I leave Paris. It is those moments that I can’t replicate when I am not there. I treasure each one of them, some of these have even led to a coffee date, but those are stories for another time.

On this January Tuesday I hadn’t planned to stay all day but it just happened. As I began to get a little hungry and wanted to sit and write the many things flying in my head I decided to dine in the beautiful restaurant in the Orsay with a view of the Seine and Eiffel Tower.  I have walked by it many times noticing the beautiful chandeliers and ceiling but always kept on my way. 

A restaurant has been in this spot since the train station first opened in 1900 and the beautiful painted ceilings survive from that period. It’s hard to decide where to look, out the window or up at the ceiling the entire time you enjoy the wonderful meal presented. Some of the entrees and plates on their own could add up but like many a great restaurant in Paris they have a formule dejeuner to choose from. For 27€ you can have either a entrée + plat or plat + dessert and the choices are fantastic. 

I had the Fin pâté de canard en croûte, pickles d’oignon et jus vinaigré  (crusted duck pate, onion pickles, vinaigrette) first, followed by the Travers de porc laqué, salad croquante et pomme Anna (lacquered pork ribs, crunchy salad, Anna potatoes). And it was all amazing! As I sat there with my glass of Les Plantagenêts Saumur from the Loire I looked out into the blue skies of Paris towards the Seine and thought about how perfect this truly was. 

The stunning high ceilings are crowned with the times of the day and four seasons by Gabriel Ferrier. The room is classified as a historical treasure and it’s bright airy golden touches are impossible not to fall in love with. Definitely stop for a lovely lunch or dinner on your next trip to the Orsay. 

Afterwards, it was shocking how quiet the museum was so I kept on exploring. This time to the upper galleries on the south side. Lining the open terrace are the sculptures of Albert Bartholomé, Bourdelle, Renoir, Camille Claudel and Maillol who will soon be a star of his own exhibition in the Orsay. In the side rooms you can find the Nabis and Henri Rousseau who I adore and a special small exhibit of contemporary art inspired by Beaudilare.   

Back to the main level where I left off before lunch and the amazing academie paintings with their almost translucent glowing skin steeped in mythology and even a Delacroix or two. Filling sixty or so pages of notes, happy as can be it was time to leave but of course there is always a stop in the Orsay bookshop. Somehow there is always someone or something new I just discovered and must see if they have a book on the subject, they get me every time. 

As the sun is setting I walk down the way to the terrace of La Frégate for a little hydration as well as a moment to reflect on everything I just saw. With the Orsay to my left and the Louvre straight in front of me it is sitting at the intersection of my heart and every moment spent there is amazing. 

For more about the Musée d’Orsay check out my YouTube for videos inside and outside of the Orsay and also the special episode of La Vie Creative - Paris History Avec a Hemingway we did in honor of it’s 35th birthday back in December.

Coming to Paris this spring and want a guided tour of the Orsay and learn all the stories behind the paintings and sculptures? Contact me today to schedule your tour, spots are filling up. All my tours are private and custom to exactly what you want to see.

Email me today at claudine@claudinehemingway.com for more info.

Fun Ways to Pick Up French

Parlez-vous francais?

 If you are brushing up on your French right now, biding time until you can be back to strolling those cobblestones or you want to start from scratch, here are a   few of my favorite ways to acquire the beautiful French language.

Learning a new language isn’t easy, it takes a lot of time and devotion if you want to venture past a Bonjour Madame when you arrive in Paris. However, that doesn’t mean it can’t be fun. I spend at least an hour each day watching, reading and writing in French and my weekly lessons with my tutor is one of my favorite things I do all week.  

Like many of us, we took French in high school, and maybe that was years ago. I remember in French class I couldn’t retain anything. It was frustrating and in the end I didn’t enjoy it. After the first few trips to Paris I decided I needed to take this a little more seriously then just the Duolingo app and looked for a tutor. The Duolingo app is a fun way to begin to acquire French and a great way to jump in, but be very leery of anything that promises you will be fluent in a few weeks. Sadly, it is not that easy. 

We all obtain information differently, what works for me, may not work for you, but these are my favorite ways to dive deep into learning French. If you are serious, I would suggest getting a tutor. Many cities have a local Alliance Francais that teaches group classes depending on your level. These classes can be quite spendy and depending on your availability hard to schedule around. I love the option of a one on one tutor, that way they are working directly with you and where you may be struggling.  

 When I began with my first tutor it was all about the basic structure of the language. Learning specific words and then the dreaded conjugated verbs. Once I had that down we went into stories and comprehension.  My former tutor, Alice Ayel, a wonderful French woman living in Portugal teaches French through what she calls the Natural Method. When we were little and we were learning to talk our parents didn’t give us a stack of flashcards and books and told us to memorize them. We learned by hearing our parents saying the same words over and over. The Natural Method is just like that. Through a series of stories, starting at the “baby stage” up to more advanced and working with a dry erase board she draws and acts out the words. It is amazing how quickly this method works.  Alice has a wonderful YouTube channel where you can watch any of her stories for free. She also has a newsletter and membership that includes special videos, stories and even books. Check out her website. 

While I have a pretty strict all French diet in just about everything I do, watching French movies and tv shows is another fantastic way to acquire French. A few French people have told me they learned english from watching Friends, and it can work the other way as well. Begin by watching French shows with english subtitles, eventually turning the subtitles to French. Better yet, if it is an American show you love and have watched every episode multiple times, turn on the French subtitles or even language if it is an option. Netflix has tons of great French shows. A favorite is Dix Pour Cent, or Call My Agent. 

Does listening to Edith Piaf or Charles Aznavour transport you to France? The same method  can apply to French music. Who doesn’t belt out the chorus of Joe Dassin’s Champs-Elysées, but do you know the rest of the song? Find the songs you love and look up the lyrics. Apple now has a wonderful feature in Apple music when you play a song, you can display the lyrics. On your phone, play a song and on the bottom left of the screen is a little square bubble. Once you select that the words scroll on your screen and you can sing along. This is a great way to learn and remember pronunciation. 

 In the morning I turn on the French news as I get ready, it helps train your ear but it is also a great comfort to me. You can stream many French news networks for free from your phone. France24 can be streamed live through YouTube, BFMTV has an app that you can also stream live for free. SlingTV has a French tv package you can pay for each month and you can get live French tv shows including an option to record them to watch later. It is also my favorite trick to be able to watch French football.

Comprehending French is much easier than speaking it. It takes many people years before they can feel comfortable jumping into conversations but don’t let that scare you off. Reading is another fantastic way to increase your French intake. I spend hours every day with one French book or another while I am researching and writing. If you find a word you are unsure of you can google or use a translation app. The trick is to find something you are already interested in. If it is a subject you love, you are more likely to retain it. There are a few fantastic French Reader books, complete with a glossary in the back of every word they use for every level. I have added a few in my boutique. 

The Statues of Notre Dame

On the night of April 15, 2019 as we watched the flames reach the sky from the roof of Notre Dame de Paris it was hard not to be heartbroken. The cathedral of Paris belonged to the entire world and there was a collective gasp as we watched and hoped it for the best. 

In an unbelievable stroke of luck just four days before the fire the statues of the roof were removed one by one. On April 11, 2019 the twelve apostles flew over the streets to head south for a bit of a freshening up. The plan was to return them two by two to Notre Dame to be placed on display before their return to their roof. The plans changed but we are very lucky they can now be seen up close, an opportunity that you don’t want to miss. 

In 1795, my hero Alexandre Le Noir jumped into action to save the monuments of France that were in the path of destruction by the Revolution. The tombs of the kings and queens in the Basilique Saint Denis would have been lost if not for Alexandre. The rescued monuments made their way to the Ecole des Beaux Arts and became the first Museum of French Monuments. It lasted until 1815 when the contents were returned to their rightful homes Emmanuel Viollet-Le-Duc, an architect that plays a major part in Notre Dame had a dream to recreate the museum and in 1879 it was revived and opened at the Trocadero. 

Filled with the casts of French churches and monuments it was the perfect home for the statues of Notre Dame until they can return to their peak over the Seine.

In 1842 Viollet-le-Duc and Baptiste Lassus were selected to rehabilitate the grand lady. HIs early plan included the addition of two spires on the roof. The former spire had been removed in 1797 for safety issues and an entire generation never knew the church with a spire. Coming off the renovation of Sainte Chapelle, Viollet-le-Duc wanted to add statues to the roof and tapped Adolphe Victor Geoffroy-Dechaume who he had worked with on Sainte Chapelle. 

Work began on the Apostles in 1848 and they were a bit more than meets the eye. The inner structure was created with iron and then covered with copper sheets making for a much lighter statue that could stand far above the streets. In the Périgeux offices of SOCRA the statues arrived and the work began. Many of the internal structures had to be partially replaced. Micro-sandblasting with apricot powder the outer layer of patina was removed. A dark bronze colored paint was added and coated with wax and after a month of work the statue was complete. 

There are 16 total statues, twelve  Apostles and four Evangelists and they can all be found in the rarely visited Cité de l’Architecture & Patrimoine. There are four different body types and Dechaume then made each unique with their head, hands and attributes. 

Saint Pierre (Peter), is of course holding a key as he is always depicted in almost every church you will ever enter. Waiting at the gates of heaven, the “Prince of the Apostles” is the first you'll also encounter as you walk in. Saint Pierre is the patron saint of clockmakers, locksmiths, foot problem and Las Vegas as well as a very long list of others. 

Saint Matthieu (Matthew) A former customs officer and tax collector that left to follow Jesus also wrote the first gospel. The open book he holds is a nod to that. Matthieu is the patron saif of accountants, Italy and perfume makers. 

Saint André (Andrew) The brother of Saint Pierre, he was a fisherman and one of the first disciples chosen. Sentenced to death by dying on the cross he asked that his cross be different from the one Jesus was crucified. A cross in the shape of an X was created and he magically attached to it instead of having to be nailed. Today he is the patron saint of fishermen, singers, pregnant women and Scotland which uses the cross of Saint Andrew as its flag. 

Saint Jude The same body as Saint Thomas he is without any attributes. 

Saint Simon In this statue he is holding a book, but is often seen holding a long saw that was the instrument of his death. 

Saint Bartholomew The first statue to be restored, he is holding a knife to signify his rather gruesome death. He had been skinned alive and beheaded and now is the patron saint of butchers and leather workers, which is a bit gruesome. On a lighter note he is also the patron saint of cheese and salt merchants. 

Saint Jacques Le Mineur (James the Younger) Holds a club that he was killed with, often depicted with stones that he was struck with. 

Saint Paul Once the persecutor of Christians he had a divine revelation and converted and became a preacher. Killed in 64AD with a sword that cut off his head, he now rests his hand on a sword and strokes his beard. 

Saint Jacques Le Majeur (James the Major) At the scene of many of the most important events he was one of the closest disciples of Jesus. He preached through Spain and was the first to be executed in 44AD. His names is given to the pilgrimage walk, the Compostela and can be seen with a walking stick. He also gives his name to scallops and is the patron saint of Spain, Seattle, pharmacists and oyster fishermen. 

Saint Jean (John) The youngest and beardless one is always easy to spot. One of the most loyal Apostles, he holds a cup that signifies his miracle of drinking poison and surviving. 

Saint Philippe Holds the cross from which he was killed and is the patron saint of pastry chefs and hat makers. 

At the base of each cardinal point leading to the spire is one of the four evangelists in the form of four living creatures. Each is in the same pose and has their heads turned towards the saints that look below. 

The Eagle of Saint Jean, the Angel of Saint Matthieu, the Lion of Saint Marc and the Ox of Saint Luc. 

The last saint you will find has a special added touch. Saint Thomas, the patron saint of architects, takes on the physical appearance of Viollet-le-Duc. Dechaume also added the architect's name to the ruler that he holds out from his right side as his left arm is raised. Unlike the other 11 statues of the Apostles, Saint Thomas turns to look up at his spire. 

I am relieved that he didn’t have to see his beloved spire burn on that early spring evening. 

Also on sight is the miracle rooster that once crowned the spire. As the fire ate away at the fleche, all I could think of was the rooster that held three precious relics. When the spire could no longer hold itself up it crashed into the transept of the church and the rooster was thought to have perished. The next day, architect Philippe Villeneuve was photographed holding the battered rooster with the relics still safely inside. 

Those precious relics include a piece of the Crown of Thorns. A relic of Saint Denis, the 3rd century patron saint of Paris that was beheaded and walked five miles holding his head. And a relic of Sainte Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris that saved the city numerous times during her life and many times in the 1600 years since her death.  I think she did it once more on April 15, 2019 saving the beloved Notre Dame from total destruction. 

Be sure to visit the Cité de l’Architecure & Patrimoine when you are next in Paris. Located at the Trocadero, just across from the Eiffel Tower it is open Wednesday - Monday 11am - 7pm and Thursday 11am - 9pm. 

However, don’t wait to explore, watch my video that shows you all these treasures of Notre Dame and more.

Visit my Boutique for a few of my favorite books on Notre Dame

More Gift Ideas for the Francophile

I had too many wonderful Christmas ideas to share with you so here are a few more time tested and wonderful treats. Give one to your favorite Francophile or just a special treat for yourself. 

One of my favorite restaurants in Paris is just a short walk from the Musée du Louvre and Palais Royal. Willi’s Wine Bar has been in Paris for over FORTY years, opening in 1980 it has been a staple of the first arrondissement and all those that have fallen in love with it.

Mark Williamson has put his heart and soul into making it a relaxed bistro with exceptional food and bringing one of the first wine bars to Paris. I have enjoyed Willi’s many times and it is a place I never miss and always pass on to travelers looking for a wonderful meal. The menu changes but you will no doubt find something delicious and don’t forget the wine. Mark and his staff curate the wine list with exceptional wines that may be new to you but ones you will always remember. 

In 1983, Willi’s began making a yearly poster with local artists that are inspired by wine and all the beauty that comes from a bottle. Past artists include one of my favorites Jean Charles de Castelbajac in 2005, Cathy Millet in 1986, Jacques de Loustal in 2004, Petronille in 2018 and MH Jeeves in 2016. You can purchase all of these wonderful posters at their website. 

Last yearMark released a book dedicated to the first 40 years of Wili’s. Immoveable Feast, 40 Years of Feeding the French covers the tales from the bar, recipes and many of the images from the posters. Mark graciously gave me a copy and it is fantastic! 

Janise Commentz has been painting all her life. Raised by an artist, she would pursue her love of art and share it with others. A high school teacher of art and English in the Mojave Desert and later Joshua Tree but always inspired by the romance of Paris. 

Janise now creates beautiful watercolors of many of the beautiful sights in Paris and I was so excited to be gifted one of her lovely calendars. January starts out with a dreamy watercolor of Boulevard Saint Germain, in my favorite area of Paris. Janise doesn’t just paint France she also has many other images of the desert as well as portraits. And for all of you that want to become an artist in your own right, check out her online classes. Oh how I wish I could paint like this. Check out all her great cards and calendar on her Etsy shop.

Désirée Marie Townley is a personal stylist and designer that during covid had to make a little detour as many of us did. As a master of scouring the markets of Rome she finds amazing pieces she curates and sells on her instagram, The Pewter Thimble. 

Originally from Oregon she went from a costume designer in the theater and opera to helping people find their own style. Désirée is the sweetest and has such a great eye for your next greatest treasure. 

Molly Wilkerson decided to leave Texas and head to Paris to go to culinary school in 2013. Enrolling in Le Cordon Bleu just like another American, Julia Child did many years before. A return to Texas but the never ending pull to Paris had her on a plane and heading back to the city of pastries. 

Sharing the love of pastries in an engaging and adorable way she gave classes around France and in her Versailles apartment until the pandemic hit. With a perfect pivot she brought all her wonderful classes straight into your kitchen anywhere in the world. Every month Molly gives lessons in sweets like Macarons and Bûche de Nöel and savory wonders like soupe à l'oignon. This year she also released a cookbook, French Pastry Made Simple which is a must for any aspiring baker. 

Out now is her list of classes for January that include Galette des Rois, just in time for the Epiphany and even a Croquembouche with all it’s wonderful choux puffs and pastry cream. Check out all her classes at mollyjwilk.com, perfect gift for your pastry loving friend.

Christmas ideas for the Francophile

Tis the season to be inundated with “gifts for the Francophiles” in your life. Instead of recommending crazy over priced items I want to share with you a few of my favorite things from really wonderful people. You may even decide you need one or two for yourself. 

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac has been a designer and artist for over five decades. His colorful creations have dressed the runways and stages by the biggest stars but it is his sweet little chalk angels he leaves all over Paris that  I love so much. This Fall and Winter the Centre de Pompidou is holding a special interactive exhibit for children, but big kids can check it out too. Although they thought it was a bit odd when I walked in and the guy let me know it was kids. I just said, oui, mais j’adore JCDC.  The event runs until May 9, 2022. 

When I saw that he put together a book of his lively colored designs and angels I had to have it. It’s not an inexpensive book, that's when my discount at the Louvre bookstore comes in handy. You can find it on Amazon on the US or French site, its less expensive on the French site even with the conversion. For a less expensive version check out the color and activity book, now I wish I also got that one.  And when in Paris always keep an eye out for an angel left behind for a loved one. 

John Baxter has spent his life sharing the stories of Paris and the biographies of the most interesting people. His newest book is out now and dedicated to actor of the Silver Screen, Charles Boyer. Charles Boyer, The French Lover is the story of the suave actor known for his wonderful voice and amazing roles. I loved him as the eccentric neighbor living in the attic about Robert Redford and Jane Fonda in Barefoot in the Park and also as the host of a wonderful 1964 documentary on the Louvre.  John’s books are the best and are the perfect gift for the film lover or reader in your life.

The perfect gift for anyone that has ever been to Paris or just dreamed about going is a lovely sketch of your favorite restaurant in Paris. Former New Yorker editor John Donohue found he loved spending his days capturing the facades of the restaurants of New York, London and Paris and chased his dream to do just that.  

Each sketch is done in under 30 minutes and include many of the best places in Paris. Check to see if yours is included. Had the best hot chocolate of your life at Angelina? A wonderful meal on your first trip at Le Grand Colbert or L’Ami Jean. However, I think you all know which one I need and maybe even one as a gift to the L’Avant Comptoir as well.

Check out his entire collection here and pick up one for yourself at the same time. 

I have to admit, I always thought it was a bit ridiculous to spend money on an expensive candle. Well, that all changed when I saw a special Diptyque candle created with artist Jean-Michel Othoniel and how it’s tied to the Musée du Louvre. 

In celebration of the 30th anniversary of I.M. Pei’s Pyramid the Louvre asked Othoniel to create a new version of his book, Herbier Merveilleux, the Secret Language of Flowers. More than 5000 works of art in the Louvre include flowers, so he needed to narrow it down. One piece stood out to him above many and from that he also created six paintings. 

Peter Paul Rubens captured the moment of the marriage of Marie de Medici to Henri IV by proxy as we just talked about the other day. At the base of their feet laying on the step is one single red rose. With the vastness of the room that is the Medici Gallery it is this one rose that stands out. Othoniel believes it is the symbol of the entire museum, the image of passion and power. For what is more delicate and strong than a rose? 

Diptyque has been making candles since 1961 and still operates it’s original store at 34 Boulevard Saint Germain. Each year they develop special edition candles that fill your room with deep and beautiful scents. They also make perfume, room sprays and more. Now I can’t wait to go visit the flagship store and know I am now on a slippery slope of fancy French candles. I love each afternoon when I light it for an hour and am reminded of the paintings Othoniel left in the Cour Puget. Find the special candle and more here. 

They will ship from their US location and have a few stores around the country as well.

On the carrefour de l’Odéon just steps away from the best wine bar in Paris is the Zoé Ferdinand boutique. Filled with distinct pieces you can take home to mark your trip to Paris and also a collection of great shirts based on some of the best books ever written. I could be a bit biased about that but, c’est la vie. One day I was walking by the lovely facade of the store covered with flowers in the window when I spotted a great t-shirt and HAD to have it.  

We know the great Hemingway book published after his death as A Moveable Feast, documenting those early years in Paris and the friends that filled it, it is a must for any Francophile. However in France the book is known under the title “Paris est une fête”. So spying this treasure in the window I had to grab it. 

Since then Zoé has added candles, sweatshirts, necklaces and even some undies. Check out her entire collection online and when you are in Paris stop by before you pop into L’Avant Comptoir de la Terre. 

The Story of Saint Nicolas

There are many holidays coming up in December, a little something for everyone and I have one more you can easily add to your list. 

On the evening of December 5 children in Europe and the north and eastern side of France leave their shoes out at night hoping to wake up and find some sweets and treats waiting for them. Saint Nicholas day begins the holiday season in Europe, much like our day after Thanksgiving in the US.

Saint Nicholas was an actual person and the basis for the modern day Santa Claus who was born on March 15, 270 in Lycia, Turkey today. The 3rd century saint was devoted to the church from a very early age and lived a life of selfless giving. When his parents died he gave all the money they had away helping those that had nothing. 

Not a lot is known of his life and his many deeds are of course disputed as most stories are from so long ago but they are all wonderful tales of the man that would become the most beloved by children for centuries. 

Nicholas learned of a man that had three daughters but had lost all of his money. Without a dowry they were destined to a life of prostitution. To keep his identity secret and to not embarrass the father Nicholas walked by in the dark of night and dropped a small bag of gold coins in their open window. The oldest daughter was married shortly after when she had the much needed dowry.

Nicholas returned another night and did the same thing again. Now the second daughter was able to marry. The father wanted to find out who this generous person was and stayed up all night long and as the bag was dropped he discovered it was Nicholas. He thanked him profusely and promised to keep it a secret. 

However, the most famous of all stories is a slightly gruesome one, but with a happy ending. Three boys were lost in the woods and after days without food they wandered into the door of a butcher. He promised to give them food if they came in, but had a dastardly plan in mind. Killing the three boys he stuffed them into a barrel of salt and planned to sell them off as pork later. Nicholas found out and arrived in time to revive the boys and save them. 

That butcher is known now as Père Foutteard and was forced to spend eternity with Saint Nicholas and see him bring treats to all the children. He is often seen in art holding switches and lumps of coals for the bad kids. Sounds much worse than the threat of the Elf on the Shelf to me. 

Nicholas died on December 6, 343 and his feast is celebrated each year. Today he is the patron saint of children and prostitutes, which is very fitting from the legend of his life.  In medieval times nuns would leave baskets of food at the homes of the needy continuing his generous gifts. Today you will find children leaving their shoes to wake up to find an orange and some chocolate coins and treats. I wonder if Saint Nicholas would also bring some new shoes? 

Saint Nicholas of course morphed into Father Christmas in England and Santa Claus in the US, however all derived from the kind man that delivered gifts to those that really needed them. Come this Sunday night, start a new little tradition and leave your shoes out, after all we could all use a nice little treat these days.

What to see in Paris this Winter

In the last two years the museums of Paris, just like everything and everyone else, had to deal with all sorts of changes. Exhibitions were set up when museums were closed. Many never happened and a few pushed through and were able to be seen by a few as lockdowns eased. 

Now, the museums are slowly getting back on track and this winter some great new shows are opened and ready for visitors. Here are just a few with even more listed on my website or else this newsletter was going to be six pages.  

We start with my beloved favorite, the Musée du Louvre, 

In honor of the 200th anniversary of the Greek Revolution the Louvre is holding an amazing exhibit that includes painting, antiquities and statues spanning over 240 years. Paris Athènees Naissance de la Grèce Moderne  1675-1919 runs until February 7, 2022. As the first major exhibit after the lockdowns it was a welcome sight to see. The exhibit begins with pieces and books from the exploration by the two ambassadors appointed by Louis XIV, Comte de Choiseul-Gouffier and Antoine Galland Marquis de Nointel in the 17th century. The two men brought back manuscripts, antiquities and art and shared a part of the world few had seen at the time. 

Greek sculptures are well known in the lexicon of art around the world and the exhibit focuses just as much on the art that tells the story of Greece as the beloved art we have been blessed with for centuries. After the fall of the Byzantine Empire the icon paintings remained popular for five more centuries and spanned artists from Angelos Akotanos to El Greco and Nikolaos Kantounis.  These paintings are brilliantly displayed and glisten in the light. 

Michael Damaskinos L’Adoration des Mages vers 1583

Two of my favorites were Michael Damaskinos L’Adoration des Mages vers 1583 and El Greco’s La Dormition de la Vierge vers 1566, which is very different from the El Greco’s we are accustomed too. 

In 1821 the Greek War of Independence began and influenced the French Romantic painters. Delacroix, Ary Scheffer and Horace Vernet were inspired and painted some beautiful paintings bringing the emotions of the people to life. Ary Scheffer Les Femmes Souliotes  depicts the women clutching to their children as they decided on mass suicide instead of giving into the Ottoman troops. 

Eugène Delacroix La Grèce sur les ruines de Missolonghi 1826. Delacroix painted many of the stories of Lord Byron and illustrated the English poet's words. In 1824, Byron traveled to Missolonghi to take up arms in the fight for Greek independence but would die there when he became sick. It only led to him becoming an even larger influence on the Romantic painters of the time and the fascination with the plight of the Greek people. Delacroix followed up his Massacres of Scio in 1824 with this allegory of Greece standing on the ruins of Missolonghi, her hands open in sacrifice. So stunning. 

Also on display is an interesting look into the excavation of Milo. The Vénus de Milo may be one of the most recognized images in the world but she wasn’t the only thing found. On Melos in April 1820, a farmer was out looking for some stones for his property and discovered the 2nd century BC white marble wonder. Venus traveled to Paris in 1821 and digging continued for eight more years. Many of the contents were sent around Europe and can be found today in the many museums. A helmet dating to the 3rd century BC , Tete de prêtre from the 1st century BC and Hermes de Milo discovered in 1827 from the 1st c BC. It was fascinating to see other pieces unearthed from the same site as Venus. 

Also at the exhibit were copies of ancient Greek statues the Louvre had copied in their workshops as well as pieces from ancient structures. Colorful drawings of the restaurants of greek structures and the art that ancient Greece inspired the artists of the 19th and 20th century round out the exhibit. 

Paris Athènees Naissance de la Grèce Moderne 1675-1919 runs until February 7, 2022

Other exhibits in the Musée du Louvre are the From Afar Traveling Materials that feature objets d’art and sculptures, many of which are in the permanent collection. Each year the Petite Galerie puts together an exhibit that focuses on education on a subject you may never have thought about before. 

This year’s exhibit From Afar Traveling Materials gives you a new look at things we take for granted today like animals, materials like shells, ivory and silver and how precious they really are. I loved the stories of Clara the rhinoceros and the giraffe that fascinated France and the king. Artists captured them in everything from clocks to statues and gave citizens the first look at these exotic animals. 

From Afar Traveling Materials will be on display until July 4, 2022 in the Richelieu wing 

One of the most anticipated exhibits and one I couldn’t wait to see so was there on the first day was the Musée Marmottan Monet exhibit Julie Manet, an Impressionist Heritage.  Julie Manet was the daughter of artists Berthe Morisot and Eugene Manet, brother of Edouard Manet.  She was her mothers favorite subject and we can see her grow up in the paintings that hang in the Musée d’Orsay and around the world. 

Eugène Manet died in 1892 and a few years later she lost her mother. Julie was just 16 and her “uncles'' stepped in to help watch over her. These included Monet, Renoir, Degas, Sisley and Stéphane Mallarmé that she wrote about in her diary that was later published. 

The exhibit is amazing and includes portraits of Julie by her mother, Renoir and Manet but also a few paintings Julie did as well. After all with those artistic genes she was of course talented. Her mother had first met Edouard Manet in the Louvre as she was training as a copyist and many of the paintings that Manet and her father in law Henri Rouart had copied in the Grande Galerie are also on display which I was very excited about. When her father in law died, she inherited many of his pieces that now are found in the Louvre, Orsay and Marmottan Monet. 

The Musée Marmottan Monet is on the edge of Paris and the Bois de Boulogne and houses the largest collection of Monet in the world including Impressio, Sunrise that gave the entire movement its name. It is pretty stunning to see it up close and in person. 

The Julie Manet exhibit runs through March 20. 

Not far from the Marmottan-Monet is the Fondation Louis Vuitton. The building designed by Frank Gehry is a piece of art in itself and inside is a collection of contemporary art as well as special exhibits that change twice a year.  

The current exhibit Morozov, Icons of Modern Art continues the Fondations focus on sharing the outstanding collections that are rarely seen outside of their home museums.  The Morozov brothers Mikhail and Ivan werehttps://www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr/en/events/icones-de-lart-moderne-la-collection-morozov part of the Morozov dynasty that had art collecting in their blood. The two brothers stepped up the collecting and quickly gathered some of the greatest French and Russian modern art. 

Toulouse-Lautrec, Monet, Pissarro, Renoir, Cézanne, van Gogh, Matisse and many more and the first time the entire collection has returned to French soil. It is a sight to behold. A few of the highlights include Picasso’s Les Deux Saltimbanques Toulouse-Lautrec’s Yvette Gilbert Sings, Linger, Longer, Loo and the one painting that stands out over all of them Vincent van Gogh’s The Prison Courtyard painted during his time at the asylum of Saint Remy. Where van Gogh paints himself into the prison yard walking in a circle with fellow prisoners. What we know of his life and seeing this painting is sad and will take your breath away. 

Covering three levels and masterfully done, allow yourself a few hours to take it all in and not feel rushed. After that, be sure to explore the upper terraces and the view over the Bois de Boulogne. The exhibit ends February 22, 2022 and if you can’t make it there is an amazing coffee table book you can order from Amazon that is beautifully done. 

At the Musée de Luxembourg is holding a photo exhibit of Vivien Maier, the nanny who took thousands of photos and left the negatives and undeveloped film in boxes in a storage unit. In 2007 they were discovered and auctioned off. The photos in black and white are amazing and a slice of time that is long gone. Her story is fascinating and a bit heartbreaking and was also featured in a 2013 documentary that brought her story to the masses. After walk through the gift shop where they are selling cans of Campbell’s tomato soup for almost 8€ and other american canned food for some odd reason. Also find me on a corner in Paris with a case of soup funding my champagne budget soon.

Musée d’Orsay  

Signac, Collectionneur until January 13  Is the fantastic personal collection of the artist. 

Enfen le Cinéma. Arts, images et spectacles en France 1833-1907 until January 16 enlightening exhibit of how much art and paintings inspired cinema.

The double exhibition held at both the Musée Picasso Paris and the Musée Rodin takes on the two artists in a really interesting way. Rodin died in 1917 and Picasso first arrived in Paris in 1900 and while Rodin was in the sunset of his lige their art crosses over each other many times. My favorite parts were when they had a piece by each artist that was of the same theme but with their very different takes on it. Like Le Baiser by Picasso and Rodin seen at the Rodin. La Nageuse by Picasso next to Etude pour Iris by Rodin at the Rodin. Those early years when Picasso was just a young artist he had visited a solo exhibition of Rodin held at Place de l’Alma in 1900. He jotted down a sketch of Rodin that October of 1900 and returned to Barcelona and made a few small sketches and sculptures inspired by Rodin. 

The joint exhibit runs until January 2 but be sure to visit both museums whenever you are in Paris. They are both fantastic and coming on November 22nd tune into our new episode of Paris History Avec a Hemingway on La VIe Creative Podcast all about the Musée Rodin. 

Musée de l’Orangerie  David Hockney, A Year in Normandie  until February 14, 2022  

   Chaïm Soutine/WIllem de Kooning, la peinture incarnée  until January 10, 2022

Musée Jacquemart-André Boticelli, Artist and Designer until January 24, 2022

There are even more starting to be announced for the spring and I can’t wait to visit and share them with you.  

And if you missed my live chat last week about all these exhibits and more you can watch it now on YouTube. 

Travel to Paris with Me and Into the Life of the Artists from Yesterday & Today

What are you ladies doing in October 2022? Want to explore the Paris of the artists and authors of yesterday and today? I am so excited to announce a very special 6 night, 7 day tour of Paris partnered with my friends at Girls Guide to Paris and Krystal Kenney. 

On this tour we will walk in the footsteps of  Hemingway and Delacroix bien sûr. Visit the Musée du Louvre and Musée d’Orsay and see the art in a whole new way through the stories of the artists and history of the painting. We will also visit a few of the current artists in Paris who were inspired by those that came before them. Pair this all with a few of my favorite restaurants and cafes, a photography lesson with Krystal and a gourmet dinner on the Seine as the Eiffel Tower sparkles behind us. 

Limited to just 8 ladies, so we keep it small and customized for a wonderful experience. Airfare is not included, but lodging and all the meals, activities and details listed are. Want to save your spot and chat a bit more about the trip, visit Girls Guide to Paris and schedule a call with me. I look forward to talking to you and showing you my favorite parts of Paris. 

Check out all the details 

• Visit the collection of artist Jacqueline Marval 

• Life of Hemingway with a Hemingway

• Ateliers of the artists past and present 

• Apero at a secret bar in Montmartre 

• Exclusive visit to Paris’s most popular wine bar 

• A deeper look at the Louvre and Orsay with an expert 

• Dinner at the restaurant immortalized by the Impressionists 

• Become an artist yourself behind the lens of your camera or phone 

• Dinner on the Seine by master chef Alain Ducasse 

Day 1 - September 28, Wednesday 

After settling into the elegant left bank Hotel Le Recamier named after Juliette Recamier, the hostess and muse of Revolutionary Paris. We will meet at 7pm for a welcome drink and introduction before heading to dinner at Le Pré Aux Clercs, a short walk from the hotel. 

 Day 2 - September 29 

Thursday The Female Artists of Paris 

 We shall begin our week together with a visit to the Comité Jacqueline Marval to see the exclusive collection of the artist,  Apollinaire called her “one of the most remarkable artists of our time”. 

 Lunch will be at La Boite Aux Lettres for a quintessential Montmartre lunch  on Rue Lepic where artists from Van Gogh to Degas once lived. 

 After lunch we'll take a stroll back in time through Montmartre ending at the Musée de Montmartre. The museum is where many of the artists lived and painted including Renoir and Suzanne Valadon whose studio is still intact. Walk into her life and get a glimpse into the 19th century. 

Working up a thirst we can enjoy an early apero at the relaxing private hidden Hotel Particulier which will be followed by an early dinner at the Moulin de la Galette which was immortalized on canvas by many an artist.

 Day 3 - September 30 Friday 

Hemingway in Paris & Saint Germain des Prés

 In the life of Ernest Hemingway, his Paris years are the most known, but not always the most accurate. Claudine Hemingway, a descendant of the famed author, will take you on a tour through many of the important addresses of his time in Paris filled with the story of those years. 

 Afterwards we will enjoy lunch at an authentic and wonderful French restaurant Chez Fernand, nestled in the historic Odéon area. The small family owned restaurant is steep in all the classic French dishes. 

 We are in the shadows of the great Romantic artist Éugene Delacroix and so we visit his small museum that resides in his former home and atelier which marked the final years of his life while he worked on the frescos in Saint Sulpice. Afterwards, we will visit the stunning church that holds said frescos as well as so much history. 

 For our cocktail hour, we will visit one of the hottest places in Paris, once beloved by Anthony Bourdain. The small but mighty L’Avant Comptoir de la Terre. Created by Yves Camdeborde as a way to enjoy a glass of wine or small plate. This is Claudine’s favorite place in Paris!

 The rest of the night is yours, we will give you a few nearby spots for a casual dinner.  

Day 4 - October 1 Saturday  

The New Artists of Paris 

 On day 4 we will step into the atelier of Alison Grace Koehler. Alison is a poet, stained glass artist, and vibrant member of the Parisian artistic community. Mixing poetry into her stained glass gives it a fresh new take on the age old art that once was only seen in the churches and cathedrals. 

 For lunch we will dine at the casual artsy French Brasserie L’Arrosoir beneath the Coulée Verse René-Dumont walkway that inspired the High Line in New York.

 From the past to the artists of today, we will visit painter Stephanie McKenzie who is just one member of an eight level atelier Le 100 Establishment a community of painters and artists. 

 After a proper French sieste, we will head back to the right back tonight to dine at Willi’s Wine Bar near the Palais Royal. One of the first wine bars in Paris which opened in 1980. A personal favorite, the food is fantastic, the wine list is long and the atmosphere and staff charming. 

Day 5 - October 2 Sunday 

The Impressionists that changed the art scene

 We will start off the day viewing the art of the Impressionists in the morning light of the upper floor of the Musée d’Orsay. Monet, Degas and all their friends shook up the art world back in the day pulling it out of its classical realism tracks. 

 From one beautiful piece of art to another we will enjoy a classic and amazing crepe at Breizh Cafe before venturing through the Jardin du Luxembourg with our very own artist Krystal teaching you all the best tips and tricks when taking photos in Paris on your phone or camera.  We will explore the gardens and hidden spots while you capture some of the over 100 statues dedicated to the artists, authors and infamous women in French history. 

 Relax in the garden or back at the Hotel Recamier before we venture over to the shadows of Notre Dame to the classic Chez Julien for dinner. If you love profiteroles and homemade chocolate sauce, this is your heaven.

 Day 6 - October 3 Monday 

The great artists that still inspire today 

 The Musée du Louvre was previously a former palace of kings that would transform into the largest museum in the world. For hundreds of years artists have stood in front of a canvas copying these masters. Manet, Morisot, Valadon and many more learned how to paint from the artists that came before them. We will explore many of these paintings and treasures of the Louvre guided by Claudine.

 After soaking in the beauty of the Louvre we will enjoy lunch just near the Palais Royal at the lovely Le Nemours. Famous for its wonderful setting and delicious Croque Madame and some of the nicer servers in Paris. 

 Take the afternoon off for some shopping, a rest or take a walk through the lovely Palais Royal before we meet for dinner. 

 For our last meal we will have a celebratory dinner with a view to die for as we roll down the Seine on the famed chef Alain Ducasse floating restaurant. The Eiffel Tower sparkles for us as we talk about the discoveries and new memories we made during this magical week in Paris.

 Day 7 October 4 Tuesday  

Breakfast and departure.

 “America is my country, but Paris is my home” Gertrude Stein. Paris lives on in the hearts of everyone that has visited. After a morning cafe and croissant we will bid you adieu or hopefully á bientôt

Hemingway's arrive at Rue Cardinal Lemoine

Ernest and Hadley Hemingway had been married for less than three months when they set sail to Paris on 8 December 1921. Arriving on 20 December they spent their first night in the Hôtel Jacob on Rue Jacob in Saint Germain. On 9 January 1922, the Hemingway’s moved into an apartment on the top of Montagne Saint-Geneviève in the shadows of the Pantheon thanks to the help of fellow expat Lewis Galantiere. Lewis had pushed the couple to look at Montparnasse but they were drawn to the Latin Quarter a short walk away on the Rue du Cardinal-Lemoine. Located in what was once the moat of the ancient Philippe-Auguste wall, was the first official home for the couple. 

Their 4th floor two rooms were considered a “cold-water walk up” with a “toilet” in the hall at each floor. Saying it was a toilet is really romanticizing it, it was not much more than a hole in the floor. Oddly shaped rooms, floors that bent and slanted and no hot water. Even with these bleak descriptions, Hem later said, “With a fine view and a good mattress and springs for a comfortable bed on the floor, and pictures we liked on the walls, it was a cheerful, gay, flat”  They were happy at this time, and didn’t need much. 

For just 250 francs or $18 a month it came furnished and with their own femme de menage, Marie Cocotte who would cook for them each night. The small two room apartment was small but had just enough room to add a piano for Hadley. 

Below them was the Bal du Printemps, a bal musette dance hall that would keep them up on the hot summer nights with the windows open. This is also where the reference in the Sun Also Rises comes from.  Just steps away was the Place de la Contrescarpe where the Café des Amateurs that he would sit and have a café and watch the characters of the square. Although he thought it was a “cesspool” and avoided it because of its smell and disruptiveness. In the Snows of Kilimanjaro, he wrote that Harry was sitting watching the “drunkards and the sportifs”. This was far away from the fashionable cafés Rotônde and Select of Montparnasse.  The ghost of Hemingway is all over Paris. If you are going to be in Paris in April and May message me. I will be doing some guided tours in the steps of Hemingway, and other Paris tours (hopefully) 

Calendrier de l'Advent - 23 Decmber

When it comes to how we spend our money it is so important to give the gift of time and experience rather than another physical gift that ends up in the back of a closet. Finding these experiences this year has been difficult but thankfully because of the internet we can bring the world to our couch. 

 Recently Krystal Kenney, my podcast partner and I started bringing Paris to you each Sunday. Each LIVE walk through Paris is filled with the history of the streets, buildings and the many people that walked before us. For that friend (or yourself) that has everything we are offering an exciting custom gift.  We will custom design a live private  walk and bring it directly to you. You tell us which part of Paris you want to see and we will design the route and fill it with all of the history and you can sit back and enjoy it. 

Have a special spot that holds a favorite memory or a street that you walk down every time you are in Paris? Let us know and we will bring it to you. Krystal, Giuseppe and I handle all the details and also send you a gift certificate to wrap up.

Check out my website for details 

Calendrier de l'Advent - 22 December

Located in my favorite little area in Paris you will find the cutest little store. On the carrefour de l’Odéon just steps away from the best wine bar in Paris is the Zoé Ferdinand boutique. Filled with distinct pieces you can take home to mark your trip to Paris and also a collection of great shirts based on some of the best books ever written. I could be a bit biased about that but, c’est la vie. Last spring walking by the lovely facade of the store covered with flowers in the window I spotted this great t-shirt and HAD to have it.  We know the great Hemingway book published after his death as A Moveable Feast, documenting those early years in Paris and the friends that filled it, it is a must for any Francophile. However in France the book is known under the title “Paris est une fête”. So spying this treasure in the window I had to grab it. 

This great store has many other shirts with titles and sayings from some of your favorite books and you can even pick up a candle to really get the creative inspiration flowing. You can spend an entire day in this small triangle, eating, drinking and shopping.

Find all Zoe’s treasures on her website.