The Tour de France ended today in the walled city of Carcassonne that Eugene Viollet-le-Duc worked on while he restored Notre Dame de Paris. Dating back to the 3rd century and built by the Romans it had fallen into great disrepair and was going to be torn down. Mayor Jean-Pierre Cros-Mayrevielle was also an inspector of historical monuments and good friends with Prosper Mérimée, a fellow inspector, author, and historian. The two men worked together to

stop the state-sponsored destruction of Carcassonne and had the perfect man to help with the cause. Viollet-le-Duc was already working on restoring the Basilique Saint Nazaire within the city walls, restoring and updating the Romanesque church with some Gothic touches but keeping many of the 13th-century stained glass windows.

Since the 3rd century Carcassonne had gone from the hands of the Romans to the Visigoths, Charlemagne to Louis IX who would add a second rampart or wall for further protection. Later in calmer times more than a hundred homes were built between the walls that would later be demolished for restoration. Viollet-le Duc’s plans included finishing many of the 52 towers that had been left without roofs for centuries, reinforcing the almost two miles of ramparts and four gates. Keeping its medieval appearance and ancient defense platforms and shelters he stayed close to its initial intent. However, it wasn't without controversy when he decided to top the towers with conical-shaped roofs covered with slate and not terra-cotta. Stanch historians were upset with the choice, but Viollet had found slate in the excavation of the site and felt it was historical. He died in 1879 and his student Paul Boeswillwald took over. It took over 60 years to complete, long after his death.

In 1979 my grandparents took a very slow cruise down the Canal du Midi. On 2 October they stopped in Carcassonne and of course, took some photos. You can see the Viollet slate conical roofs next to terra-cotta roofs and something you will no longer see today, cars on the medieval streets. To think this beautiful place was going to be destroyed.

Comment