Live from Paris - The Streets Around the Musée d’Orsay
23 Janvier, 2022
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Places we visited and notes today:
The Passerelle Léopold Sédar Senghor was named for the Senegalese poet and politician on October 9, 2006 on what would have been his 100th birthday. The former member of the French Academy and promotor of all things French died on December 20, 2001.
The life of the bridge first began in 1861 under Napoleon III when the Pont Solderino was built for cars, not just people as it is today. A hundred years later in 1961 it was replaced with a metal frame bridge covered with wood from Africa. The bridge that connects the lower level of the Seine to the upper quai has won numerous design awards.
At the end of the bridge on the left bank side stands the Jean Cardot statue of Thomas Jefferson. The former ambassador to France whose love of Paris inspired two of his future homes. In his hand, the founding father holds the design of Monticello that was created to resemble the front of the Hotel de Salm that he is looking at.
Heading straight down the Rue de Solferino we are walking next to the Hotel de Salm that was built in 1781 for Frederick III of Salm-Kyrburg. Designed by Pierre Rousseau that would later live there for a period when the owner sealed his fate during the Revolution and his life ended by the guillotine. In May of 1804 it was purchased by the state for the chancellor's office and the future home of the Legion d'honneur created under Napoleon Bonaparte.
In 1871 just like it’s neighbor the Palais d’Orsay it was also partially destroyed by the Commune fires but much of it was able to be saved. The inner courtyard side with its tall columns also inspired the American White House. Today it is the Musée de Legion d’honneur and is free to visit and worth a stop.
Opened Wednesday - Sunday 1:00pm - 6:00pm
Between the two museums on Rue de Lille is a favorite cafe, Les Deux Musées, I always stop for a cafe before visiting the Orsay. They have the BEST pain au chocolat I have found in a cafe. It is always warm and buttery and it is soooooo delicious and the perfect fuel for a day at the Orsay.
On the terrace of the Orsay we can find nine bronze statues that were once a part of the 1878 Universal Exhibition at the Palais de Chaillot at the Trocadero. Until 1935 these statues stood there until they were moved to Saint-Cloud. In 1985 with the upcoming opening of the newest Paris museum, the Musée d’Orsay.
On the Seine side of the terrace you can find three stunning animals. Emmanuel Fremiet’s Elephant. Pierre-Louis Rouillard’s horse pulling away from a trap and Henri-Alfred Jacquemart’s Rhinoceros. Get as close as possible to really see all the details.
On the opposite side are the statues of the six continents. Each created by a different artist and each with elements of the continent they represent. From left to right:
Alexandre Schoenewerk, L’Europe with a horse on the shield and an artist's palette to her side.
L’Asie by Alexandre Falguière, with two elephants behind her
L’Afrique by Eugène Delaplanche with a turtle at her feet and a basket of fruit
Ernest Hiolle’s L’Amerique du Nordl, on the oar to her left the names of Washington, Lafayette, Franklin and Jefferson.
L’Amerique du Sud by Aimé Millet who also did the golden statue on the top of the Palais Garnier
Mathurin Moreau’s L’Oceanie with a sweet little kangaroo
Heading down the Rue de Lille just opposite the museum at no 67 is the former hotel de Pomereu and Hotel Duret built after the former Hotel de Maillebois was destroyed in 1871. Davide de Perianrue, student of Victor Baltard, designed the Louis XV style building that would become the home of lifetime politician Robert Pomereu. Pomereu lived there until his death in 1937 and ten years later his heirs sold it to the State.
Today it is part of the Caisse des Depots et Consignations which takes up much of the rest of the block on both sides of the street. Created on April 28, 1816 by Louis XVIII to combat the Banque de France that was created by Napoleon, Louis was a bit worried trusting the Banque de France and had the Caisse created that would eventually oversee a vast portfolio of French institutions including insurance, real estate and business development.
On the northside of Rue de Lille is the grand building for the Caisse that was built on the former land owned by architect of Louis XIV Robert de Cotte. As the rail lines were being installed in the mid 19th century below the building became damaged and had to be destroyed leaving a vast open plot. Eudes and Pierre-Felix Julien designed the large building with courtyards and iron balconies between 1890-1896.
Taking a left on Rue de Bac there are a few great restaurants to add to your list. Les Antiquaires is always a hopping spot any time of the day and has a great menu and lovely staff.
Walking towards the Seine on the right is Cocorico, the French word that is the most fun to say. They specialize in chicken of course and it is all fantastic.
On the edge of the Quai Voltaire is the rather touristy La Fregate which may not have the top rated food, but for an apero and small snack it is one of the best, mostly for the view. Sitting at the base of the Pont Royal and looking at the Flore Pavillon of the Musée du Louvre, how can you really go wrong?
The current Pont Royal was built in 1685 of wood by Mansart and had 5 spans across the Seine. In 1632 the first bridge that marked this spot was known as the Pont Saint Anne for the mother of Louis XIV didn’t last long and was shortly rebuilt this time of redwood and was known at the Pont Rouge. It lasted until February of 1684 when it was destroyed and floated down the icey Seine.
For even more, be sure to watch the entire one hour visit to Paris.
Let me know if there is a place in Paris you want us to bring to you LIVE.
To learn even more about the Musée d’Orsay and the lives it had before it became the temple to Impressionism be sure to listen to the episode of La Vie Creative - Paris History Avec a Hemingway we did all about it.
To see where we will go next week, check the event tab